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Leaving the Baleny Islands and crossing north over the Antarctic Circle three days sailing brought us to Australia's Subantarctic wonderland - Macquarie Island.
Zodiac cruising Lusitania Bay we enjoyed excellent views of the large King Penguin colony and, within its midst, rusting 'digesters' the relics of the infamous Hatch oil industry once based here. Out in the water a pair of Orca/Killer Whales patrolling the beach were observed along with a very large number of Giant Petrels, including White-morphs.
The next day we landed at Sandy Bay and enjoyed further viewings of King Penguins, along with Royal Penguins and numerous bull Elephant Seals. The Chief Ranger from Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife based at the Australian Antarctic Division station kindly assisted with our visit
Royal Penguins : Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island
Website with lots of information about royal penguins HERE
Macquarie island lies about half way between New Zealand and Antarctica, and marked the southernmost extent of our voyage. The island has been awarded World Heritage status, largely largely due to its unique geology. as one of the few places on earth where mid-ocean crustal rocks are exposed at the surface due to the collision of the Australian and Pacific Plates. Moreover, Macquarie is home to to four species of penguin, Kings, Royals, Gentoo and Rockhopper. The Royal Penguin occurs nowhere else in the world.
Frederick Hasselborough discovered the uninhabited island in 1810 while looking for new sealing grounds, and for the next hundred years seals, and then penguins, were hunted for their oil almost to the point of extinction. The sealers also introduced various animals including rats, mice, cats and rabbits. The native bird population was virtually eliminated and plants destroyed. The Tasmanian National Parks and Wildlife Service which administered the island recently embarked on a very ambitious eradication program which appears to have been successful. The island is now predator free and both the birds and plants are responding.
Our virit began with a Zodiac cruise and landing at at Sandy Bay providing close encounters with Royal and King penguins,, as well as numerous bull Elephant Seals. Unfortanately the weather was misty and wet - a marked contrast to the sunshine we had on a previos visit in February 2020. In compensation, we were there this time earlier in the breeding season of the Royal penguins, so we were able to see chicks and to witness the antics of the auults in the tightly packed colony. A ranger from Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife based at the Australian Antarctic Division station had hike 10 miles overland to assist with our visit; but (as with penguins !), we could not approch her closely to maintain covid isolation of the base staff. Zodiac cruising Lusitania Bay the next day we enjoyed excellent views of the large King Penguin colony and, within its midst, rusting 'digesters' the relics of the infamous Hatch oil industry once based here. A planned landing near the research station was cancelled because of high surf on the beach.
The next day we landed at Sandy Bay and enjoyed further viewings of King Penguins, along with Royal Penguins and numerous bull Elephant Seals. The Chief Ranger from Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife based at the Australian Antarctic Division station kindly assisted with our visit
Pairs of royal penguins can be very affectionate with one another, displaying mutual grooming and other gestures. However, in the dense colony the penguins fiercely guard their personal space. Any intruder who tries to nonchanantly barge through the throng faces voiciferous opprobrium, and maybe a hard nip from a beak.